Local food products in Provence

Olive

History of the olive

The olive, one of the oldest cultivated fruits, holds a significant place in both biblical and mythological traditions, symbolising peace and wisdom globally. Its origins trace back nearly 14,000 years to Asia, with evidence suggesting that the olive tree began cultivation in Crete between 3,500 and 5,000 BC. The olive tree thrives in the Mediterranean climate due to its drought tolerance and need for abundant sunlight, making it a common sight across the region. The Phocaeans introduced the olive tree to Provence nearly 2,500 years ago, coinciding with the founding of Massilia, now known as Marseille. For a comprehensive guide on olive trees, please visit the following link: Olive Trees Guide.

Varieties and flavours

Since 2006, the AOC "Huile d'olive de Provence" label has protected and certified the quality of olive oil production across more than one hundred communes in the Vaucluse, between Mont Ventoux and The Luberon. Each olive tree yields between fifteen and twenty kilos of olives, with four to six kilos required to produce one litre of oil. Olives serve multiple purposes, from oil production to table consumption, whether as an aperitif or in cooking.

Provence is home to several key olive varieties:

Aglandau: Also known as "verdale de Carpentras," this variety is grown in the Vaucluse, Var, and Bouches-du-Rhône. It produces a fruity, smooth oil with artichoke aromas, slightly spicy and bitter. It is also used as broken green olives for the table.
Picholine: Cultivated throughout the South, it is the most widespread variety in France, suitable for both oil and table consumption.
Tanche: Grown in the Drôme and Alpes de Haute-Provence, this AOC black olive is known for its hazelnut and apple notes and can be enjoyed both as a table olive and in oil.
Lucques: Mainly grown in the Hérault region, this variety is primarily used for canning.
Caillette: A small olive from Nice, grown in the Alpes-Maritimes.
Grossane: Found in the Bouches-du-Rhône, it is used for sweet olive oil with butter, citrus, and hazelnut aromas, and is appreciated for its pulpy flesh with hazelnut and butter flavours.
Bouteillan: Grown in the Var, it is primarily used for oil production, known for its herbaceous flavours with fruity notes, and aromas of apple and pear.

The question on everyone's mind 

Are green and black olives different species?

The answer is no. They are the same fruit. The difference in colour comes from the degree of ripening. Green olives are harvested as soon as they reach the right size, before ripening begins. Black olives are harvested once the fruit has fully ripened.

How to eat them

After harvesting, olives must undergo maceration and several treatments before they are ready for consumption. A cornerstone of Mediterranean cuisine, olives are often enjoyed in the form of oil, adding depth to dishes, salads, and perfectly complementing meats, fish, and other vegetables when cooked. Olives also make a delightful tapenade, whether black or green, often combined with capers, anchovies, garlic, or pine nuts—a must-have for summer aperitifs in Provence.

Where to eat them

L'Esplan, 15 Place de l'Esplan, 26130 Saint Paul Trois Châteaux | Enjoy refined cuisine in a warm setting, with dishes made from local products accompanied by Nyons olive oil.

Bœuf qui fume, 450 Avenue Aristide Briand, Robion | Savour a meal centred around the olive.

Where to buy them

Moulin du Clos des Jeannons, 1729 route de Saint-Pantaléon Le Haut Tourteron, Gordes | A family business that uses a traditional stone millstone to produce local products with distinctive aromas. They offer a wide range of quality products, including herbal tea, soap, cookery books, honey, olives, and home fragrances.

L'ombre de l'Olivier, 90 Boulevard de la République, 84240 La Tour d'Aigues | Located in The Luberon, this shop is driven by a passion for olive oil and offers a carefully selected range of products, including cosmetics, delicatessen items, gourmet boxes, and more.

Of course, you will also find olive products in most Provençal markets.

A recipe

Melon

History of the melon

The melon, a member of the gourd family, is believed to have its origins in Africa. Its cultivation dates back to 500 years before our era, when it was grown by the Egyptians. The fruit later spread to Greece and Italy, where it was present around the first century. In France, melon cultivation is documented as early as 1495. During the Renaissance, monks cultivated melons for the popes at their summer residence in Cantaluppo, near Rome, giving rise to the name "cantaloupe" melon. By the late 16th century, melons were widely grown in southern France. In the 17th century, regions like Anjou and Touraine began producing melons for the king's court, with the Charente becoming a key producing area. The mid-19th century saw the development of melon cultivation in Cavaillon, establishing it as a significant centre for this fruit.

Varieties and flavours

Today, there are over seventy varieties of melon. Some of the most well-known include:

Charentais Cantaloupe: This variety, with its orange flesh and round shape, represents more than eighty percent of French production. Rich in sunshine, it is packed with vitamins.
Italian Brodé: Recognisable by its raised corky rind, this variety is slightly less fragrant than the Charentais but is more resistant.
Canary: Distinguished by its white flesh, yellow rind, and elongated shape.
Galia: Known for its emerald-coloured flesh and round shape.
Piel de Sapo: Featuring white flesh and green skin, this variety is also popular.

The question on everyone's mind

How do you choose the perfect melon?

Weigh it: The heavier the melon, the more sugar it contains.
Check the stalk: The pecou, or stalk, should be starting to detach, indicating ripeness.
Smell it: A sweet aroma means it is ready to eat.
Touch it: A firm melon is ideal; if it is soft, it is overripe.
Examine the skin: A good melon should have at least ten slices or stripes on its skin.

How to eat them

Rich in water, vitamins, and carotene, the Charentais or Cavaillon melon is now widely produced in Provence, particularly in the Vaucluse, Bouches-du-Rhône, and Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. This melon is a summer favourite, often served as a starter, in salads, or as a dessert.

Where to eat melons

Maison Prévôt, 353 Avenue de Verdun, Cavaillon | Chef Jean-Jacques Prévôt has established his restaurant in a former melon warehouse, where the décor celebrates the melon in all its forms. The cuisine is gastronomic and seasonal, with an entire menu dedicated to melons when they are in season.

Where to buy them

Melons can be found on every market stall throughout Provence, especially during the summer months.

Melon events

The weekend before 14 July, Cavaillon hosts the Féria du Melon. This event celebrates the melon with large banquets, street tastings, exhibitions, guided tours, and cooking competitions. 

A recipe

Candied fruit

History of candied fruit

The history of candied fruit is a story of innovation and a quest for enjoyment. In ancient times, civilisations such as the Chinese, Persians, Greeks, and Egyptians sought methods to preserve fruit through the winter. Initially, they used honey for this purpose. It was during the Crusades in the East that Westerners discovered the delights of fruit jellies, jams, and the famed candied fruits. These treats were introduced to France during the Middle Ages.

In The Luberon region, the tradition began with making jams and fruit preserved in honey. By the 14th century, the people of Apt offered candied fruit to Pope Clement VI during his pilgrimage. As a result, Apt earned the title of "confectionery squire," a name reflecting its growing reputation.

Since then, Apt has been recognised as the world capital of candied fruit. France is now the world’s leading producer, generating 14,000 tonnes annually, primarily for export. Interestingly, the United Kingdom is the largest consumer of these sweet delicacies.

Varieties and flavours

Candied fruit is created by replacing the water in fruit with sugar, a process that requires significant skill, patience, and attention to detail. Only the finest fruits from the orchard are selected for this process.

In Provence, candied fruits are more than just sweetened treats; they are prized delicacies and one of the 13 traditional Christmas desserts.

A wide variety of fruits are candied, including apricots, angelica stems, cherries, clementines, peaches, figs, kumquats, orange, lemon and ginger peels, papayas, plums, melons, citron, pears, and the luxurious marrons glacés.

The question on everyone's mind

Do candied fruits expire?

The answer is no. Candied fruits can be kept for several years, provided they are stored in an airtight container, in a dry place, away from light and heat.

How to use them

In Europe, candied fruits are primarily used in festive recipes. In France, they are a key ingredient in the brioche of Provence and are one of the 13 traditional Christmas desserts. Candied chestnuts, in particular, are a seasonal favourite. These fruits can also be used to garnish various desserts or enjoyed on their own.

A versatile addition to your culinary creations, candied fruits can enhance cakes, muffins, biscuits, verrines, or charlottes.

Where to eat and buy them

La Maison du Fruit Confit, 538 Quartier Salignan, Apt| Here, you can taste before you buy. The shop features a tea room and a museum dedicated to candied fruit, offering an immersive experience into this world, free of charge.

In Carpentras: Confiserie Clavel, Place Aristide Briand | A tea room offering a delightful selection of candied fruits.

La Maison Jouvaud, 40 Rue de l'Evêché | A well-regarded pastry shop.

In Beaumettes (Luberon): Confiserie Saint-Denis, Zone Artisanale, Plan des Amandiers.

Candied fruit events

Each June, the commercial and artisanal group in Apt organises the Festival of Candied Fruit and the Richness of the Pays d'Apt. This event features numerous cultural and commercial activities throughout the town and at the Domaine Alloïs, celebrating the rich tradition of candied fruit in the region.

A recipe

Berlingot

History of the berlingot

The berlingot is a quintessential sweet from Provence, specifically from the village of Carpentras, and is one of the oldest confections in France. The origins of this flavoured sweet are said to date back to the early 14th century, credited to a cook named Sylvestre who served Pope Clement V, the first pontiff of Avignon. The story goes that while preparing a caramel custard for a banquet, Sylvestre found himself with leftover caramel. Inspired, he decided to re-cook the caramel, adding mint and lemon to create new flavours. The result was a series of sticks that he stretched and cut, thus giving birth to the berlingot. He presented his creation with the phrase "Honneur à Bertrand de Got...", referring to the real name of Clement V, which is believed to have led to the name "berlingot."

The sweet gained wider recognition thanks to confectioner François Pascal Long, who in 1844 refined the original recipe by incorporating candied fruit syrup. By 1851, Gustave Eysséric had industrialised the production of berlingots. Today, the tradition is carried on by two confectioners in Carpentras: Thierry Vial of "Confiserie du Mont-Ventoux" and Serge Clavel of "Confiserie de Carpentras." Their combined annual production ranges between forty and sixty tons.

Varieties and flavours

The berlingot is a small, hard, translucent sweet in the shape of a pyramid, streaked with white. It is available in various colours, each representing a different flavour: red for mint, green for aniseed, yellow for lemon, and orange for orange. The range of flavours has expanded over time, now including coffee, chocolate, melon, Venasque cherry, lavender, Carpentras strawberry, fig, violet, mandarin, apple, raspberry, as well as modern flavours like cola and Carambar.

The process of making berlingots involves five key stages:

Baking
Stretching
Kneading
Cutting with a berlingotière
Placing on racks before packaging
The question on everyone’s mind
Why is the mint berlingot red?

The colour of the mint berlingot is red because the original mint flavour was made using red candied fruit syrup, giving it its distinctive hue.

Where to eat and buy them

For those keen to explore the world of berlingots, a visit to Thierry Vial's Confiserie du Mont-Ventoux, located at 1184 Avenue Dwight Eisenhower in Carpentras, is a must. The confiserie features a small museum that traces the history of this delightful sweet, along with a factory tour and a tasting session that promises to enchant both young and old.

Another destination for authentic berlingots is Clavel Confectionery, situated at Place Aristide-Briand in Carpentras. Here, you will find berlingots crafted with the utmost care, adhering to the purest traditions of this time-honoured confection.

Apricot

History of the apricot

The apricot, originally from China, has a history spanning over 5,000 years. It was introduced to the West by Alexander the Great, who brought it along the Silk Roads. The fruit was then spread throughout the Mediterranean by the Arabs, particularly flourishing in Spain and Italy. The apricot made its way to France in the mid-15th century and gained significant popularity in the 17th century, thanks to Jean-Baptiste de La Quintinie, the gardener of Louis XIV. La Quintinie planted apricot trees in the king's kitchen garden at Versailles, and from there, cultivation expanded. By the 18th century, apricot cultivation had become well established, and the fruit was documented in Henri Louis Duhamel de Monceau's "Traité des arbres fruitiers" ("Treatise on Fruit Trees") in 1782. At that time, thirteen species of apricot were identified; today, there are around thirty.

Varieties and flavours

Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur is responsible for approximately 20% of France's apricot production, making it one of the most significant fruits of the Mediterranean region. The primary apricot-producing areas in France are Provence, Roussillon, and the Rhone Valley. The Provencal apricot is particularly esteemed for the production of luxury jams and candied fruits. The most widely cultivated apricot in France is the bergeron. This traditional variety from the Rhone Valley is available from mid-July to mid-August, known for its slightly sweet and sour taste.

Orangé de Provence: A variety grown between the Drôme and Vaucluse regions, it has a highly aromatic taste that is both sweet and slightly acidic. Despite its name, this variety originates from Poland, not Provence.
Orangered: This is a juicy, melting variety with a very intense flavour.
Bergarouge: Grown in the Rhone Valley, Drôme, and Vaucluse regions, it is noted for its intense colour and slightly larger size. It is very sweet, juicy, and has low acidity.
Red apricots of Roussillon (AOC): This category includes several varieties such as rouge du Roussillon, Héléna du Roussillon, la gâterie, and royal du Roussillon. These traditional varieties are typical of the Roussillon region, characterised by medium-sized fruits with an orange colour punctuated with red.

The question on everyone's mind

Does the apricot finish ripening once it is picked?

Yes, it does. The apricot is a climacteric fruit, meaning it continues to ripen after being harvested. As it ripens, it emits ethylene gas, which accelerates the ripening process. To speed up ripening, you can place a ripe apricot next to a less ripe one. Wrapping them in newspaper can help retain the ethylene while preventing excess moisture, which can cause the fruit to rot.

How to eat them

Apricots are enjoyed fresh, but they are equally popular when dried or used in compote, jam, pie, or syrup, both in sweet and savoury dishes. Apricots are also consumed as nectar, made from apricot purée, water, and sugar. This nectar, often mistakenly called "apricot juice," is sometimes blended with peach nectar to soften its natural acidity.

Apricot events

Apricot Festival in Le Barroux: Held on 14 July, this festival takes place between Carpentras and Vaison-La-Romaine. Producers showcase their finest fruits, and visitors can enjoy a variety of apricot-based treats, including drinks, pastries, ice creams, and macaroons. The day is filled with entertainment for all ages, including an apricot pit spitting contest for adults.

Apricot Festival at L'Escale: On Sunday, 18 July, from 9 am to 5 pm, the village centre hosts another apricot celebration. The day’s events include apricot sales, a craft market, and various forms of entertainment.

A Recipe

Fig

History of the fig

The fig is thought to be the oldest cultivated fruit on Earth, with its cultivation marking the beginning of agriculture approximately 11,400 years ago in the Middle East. The fig holds a significant place in various ancient cultures and is frequently mentioned in the Bible. In Ancient Greece, Plato hailed it as the "food of the athletes par excellence," and the Greeks commonly mixed figs with oil, bread, wine, and honey. The Romans, in turn, enjoyed figs with cooked ham and used them to fatten geese. According to Roman legend, Romulus and Remus were found under a fig tree by a she-wolf, and the Roman scholar Pliny the Elder documented around thirty varieties of figs as early as the first century.

During the Middle Ages, the area around Marseille was a major centre for fig production in France, but it was not until the 19th century that fig cultivation expanded significantly, particularly in the Solliès region. Jean-Baptiste de La Quintinie, the renowned gardener of Louis XIV, planted over 700 fig trees in the kitchen garden of the Château de Versailles, at the request of the Sun King. Today, the fig is considered a symbol of the Mediterranean basin and remains a beloved fruit in Provence, where it features as one of the thirteen traditional Christmas desserts.

Varieties and flavours

There are more than 700 varieties of figs, with several dozen grown in France. Some of the most notable varieties include:

La bellone noire: Produced in the Alpes-Maritimes, this variety is known for its rich flavour.
La bellone grise: A variant of the bellone, with a greyish hue.
La grise de Tarascon: A well-known variety with a distinctive taste.
La violette de Solliès: This variety is prized for its sweet flesh and is highly appreciated in France.
La grise-saint-Jean: Ideal for drying, making it perfect for dried figs.
La marseillaise: Another variety that is well-suited for drying.

The question on everyone's mind

Is it true that when you eat a fig, you eat a dead wasp?

Yes, it is true in a sense. The fig is not actually a fruit, but an inverted flower. The small filaments inside are flowers that, once fertilised, develop into the tiny crunchy seeds within the fig. These flowers need pollen to be fertilised, and the pollen is carried by a small fig wasp that enters the fig to lay its eggs. As the wasp passes through the narrow opening of the fig, it often loses its wings and antennae, becoming trapped inside. The fig tree then produces an enzyme called "ficin," which breaks down the wasp’s body into proteins that are absorbed by the fig, leaving no trace of the wasp.

How to eat them

Figs are versatile and complement a wide range of dishes. They can be eaten raw with cottage cheese or yoghurt, in a fruit salad, or as a starter paired with ham, walnuts, cheese, and endives. Figs also pair well with salmon tartare or can be roasted with honey to accompany duck breast, guinea fowl, rabbit, or roast pork. As a dessert, figs can be enjoyed in pies, clafoutis, or gratins. They can also be consumed dried or made into compote or jam.

Where to eat and buy them

Figs can be found on all the markets throughout Provence, especially during the harvest season.

Fig events

Caromb Fig Festival: Celebrating its 13th year, this festival is dedicated to the long black fig, with a market featuring producers, artisan crafts, and local gourmet products.

Fig and Local Produce Festival in Solliès-Pont: The 24th edition of this festival will take place on 27, 28, and 29 August 2021, offering a large market and various activities over the weekend.

A Recipe

Carpentras strawberries

History of Carpentras strawberries

The strawberry originally grew wild across America, Asia, and Western Europe, spreading globally with the help of migratory birds. In Roman times, strawberries were valued not only for their flavour and fragrance but also for their therapeutic properties. The strawberry we know today was introduced to France during the Middle Ages and gained popularity during the Renaissance, often enjoyed with cream or wine. In the 17th century, Jean-Baptiste de La Quintinie, gardener to Louis XIV, cultivated strawberries in the king's vegetable garden. The king’s fondness for the little red fruit was so great that it eventually led to an allergy.

The story of the modern strawberry took a significant turn when botanist Amédée-François Frézier returned from Chile in 1714 with a new species of large white strawberries known as the Chilean white. After disembarking in Marseille, he distributed the plants before bringing them back to the botanical garden in Brest. By crossing these plants with local varieties, he created the "strawberry-pineapple," the precursor to over 600 strawberry varieties, including the renowned Carpentras strawberry, first planted in 1882.

Varieties and flavours

France is home to more than 600 varieties of strawberries, with the Carpentras strawberry being a standout, grown in the Comtat Venaissin plain around Carpentras. These strawberries, available from March, are celebrated for their exceptional taste. The four main varieties are:

Cléry: Carmine red and bright, with a very aromatic and pleasant flavour.
Gariguette: Orange-red, elongated, and highly fragrant.
Ciflorette: Orange-red and ovoid in shape, with tender, juicy, slightly acidic flesh, reminiscent of wild strawberries. It is considered a top-tier variety.
Pajaro: Dark red, almost purple, with a distinctive heart shape.

The French consume an average of two kilograms of strawberries per person each year. In Carpentras alone, 4,000 tons of strawberries are produced annually, accounting for more than 50% of Provence's strawberry production, supported by 500 farms in the area.

The question on everyone's mind

Is the strawberry a fruit?

Surprisingly, not quite. The red, fleshy part we enjoy is technically not a fruit but the receptacle of the flower. The actual fruits are the "achenes," the small hard yellow seeds visible on the strawberry’s surface.

How to eat them

Strawberries are a versatile delight, commonly enjoyed as a dessert, raw with sugar, cream, or whipped cream. They feature prominently in cakes, millefeuilles, tarts, and are also found in ice cream, jam, candied fruit, syrup, and nectar. Strawberries can even be used in savoury recipes, offering a surprising twist.

Strawberry events

The Carpentras Strawberry Festival takes place in mid-April, providing an excellent opportunity to meet local producers and sample their delicious offerings. For a deeper dive into the world of strawberries, consider visiting the farms of Mr Alain Rosa, Mrs Virginie Fraysse, or Mr Philippe Bon. Be sure to book your visit in advance: Ventoux Provence.

Saffron

History of saffron

Saffron is an ancient spice with a rich history. While it was long believed to have originated in the Middle East or Kashmir, recent research suggests it may have European roots. The plant made its first appearance in ancient Greece, particularly on the islands of Crete and Santorini, before spreading across the Mediterranean region. During the Middle Ages, the trade in saffron became highly lucrative, with the popes of Avignon playing a key role in bringing the small purple flower from which saffron is derived to Europe. The Europeans dominated the southern part of the Spice Route, while the Arabs controlled the eastern part.

In the 16th century, French traders took over the saffron trade, dubbing the spice "red gold." By the 17th century, Carpentras was home to over 160 saffron producers. By the late 19th century, France had become one of the world's leading saffron producers. Today, Iran is the largest producer globally, with Spain leading in Europe. In France, saffron production is more modest, often taking place on small farms without the use of industrial machinery.

Varieties and flavours

Saffron is unique as the only spice derived from a flower, specifically the Crocus sativus. It is also the most expensive spice in the world. The Crocus sativus is a plant with reversed vegetation, flowering in autumn. The purple flower has three petals, three sepals, and three bright yellow stamens opposite the sepals. The pistil ends in three vivid red stigmas, which are harvested and dried to produce saffron.

Saffron is distinguished by its bitter taste and hay-like scent, and it contains crocin, which imparts a golden yellow hue to dishes.

The question on everyones mind

How many flowers are needed to produce one kilogram of saffron?

It takes more than 150,000 Crocus sativus flowers—the equivalent of two football fields—to produce just one kilogram of saffron.

How to eat it

Saffron is a versatile spice used in a variety of culinary traditions. It is a key ingredient in bouillabaisse, lending the dish its distinctive flavour. Saffron is also used in broths, paella, risotto, curries, stews, and a wide range of fish and meat dishes, as well as tajines and desserts. It can be purchased in either powder form or as strands.

In addition to its culinary uses, saffron is valued for its therapeutic properties, including its roles as an antidepressant, sedative, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, and hormone regulator.

Where to buy it

Saffron can be purchased directly from local producers, and it is available in most markets throughout Provence. For online purchases, visit the website of Safran Provence, a non-profit association dedicated to reviving and promoting saffron cultivation in Provence: Safran Provence. To learn more about saffron, you can explore the blog of saffron grower Olivier Reboul, Terra t'air: Terra t'air Blog.

Here are some specific locations where you can buy saffron in Provence:

Chez les producteurs, 1500 route de Napollon, Aubagne.
Les amis paysans, La Penne-sur-Huveaune.
La Belle Ferme, 240 rue Berthelot, ZI Saint-Joseph, Manosque.
Graines de la vallée, peasant grocery and ACS, fair trade shop, 7bis rue Martinot, Aubagne.

Saffron events

A Saffron Festival is held in the second half of July in Sillans-la-Cascade. The event features a gourmet market centred around saffron, local products, conferences, culinary demonstrations, artisan crafts, activities for children, and a giant paella.

A Recipe

Nougat

History of nougat

Nougat has a long history that traces back to ancient times in the East, where it was originally made with almonds, honey, and spices. In Greece, however, it was crafted with nuts. The sweet treat made its way to Provence in the 17th century, where Marseille gained a monopoly on its production by adopting the Greek recipe. Around the same time, an agronomist from Ardèche named Olivier de Serres decided to plant almond trees near Montélimar. He used these almonds to make nougat, which quickly became a success, eventually surpassing the nougat of Marseille in fame.

From 1650, the recipe evolved with the introduction of egg whites to aerate and whiten the paste. The current recipe for white nougat, as we know it today, was developed in 1730. The delicacy gained international recognition at the end of the 19th century, largely thanks to Emile Loubet, a native of the Montélimar area and President of the Republic from 1899 to 1906. Loubet was fond of offering nougat to visitors at the Élysée Palace, helping to spread its fame abroad. Nougat's popularity was further boosted by the advent of paid holidays in 1936 and Montélimar's strategic location on the Route Nationale 7. During the great summer migrations to the South, traffic jams in Montélimar provided the perfect opportunity for locals to sell their specialty to travelers. While Montélimar remains the most famous producer of nougat, other regions in Provence also make this sweet, including Saint-Didier in the Vaucluse, Signes and Ollioules in the Var, and Allauch in the Bouches-du-Rhône.

Varieties and flavours

Nougat is a quintessential sweet in Mediterranean countries and comes in two main varieties: white and black. White nougat is made with egg whites, while black nougat is made without. Both types contain honey and/or sugar, dried fruits, and/or nuts, which can be whole, broken, or ground, along with flavourings. The paste, which ranges from soft to hard, is typically sandwiched between two sheets of unleavened bread.

White nougat: To create white nougat, honey and egg whites are mixed and slowly cooked in a bain-marie for five hours, during which the paste doubles in volume. Sugar is then added, followed by almonds and pistachios.
Black nougat: Black nougat is made by cooking honey and almonds over high heat, stirring vigorously until the honey caramelises and the almonds are cooked. This process takes about 45 minutes. The primary difference between white and black nougat lies in their cooking methods.

Both white and black nougat are considered distinct sweets and are among the thirteen traditional Christmas desserts in Provence.

The question on everyone’s mind

Where does the word nougat come from?

Etymologically, the word "nougat" comes from the 16th-century Occitan word 'nogat', which is derived from 'noga', meaning 'nut', from the Latin 'nux'. However, there is also a charming legend that offers an alternative origin. According to the story, a woman named Aunt Manon had two nieces, Lisa and Lina, whom she regularly treated with a secret confection. The girls would exclaim, "Aunt Manon, you spoil us!" (« Tante Manon, tu nous gâtes ! »). Little Lina later inherited her aunt’s cookbook, which included a recipe titled "Tu nous gâtes", eventually evolving into the recipe for the famous nougat.

Where to buy them

Montélimar is the heart of nougat production, and there are several places where you can purchase this sweet treat, as well as learn more about its history:

Musée du Nougat, 22 avenue de Gournier, Montélimar | Here, you can buy nougat and immerse yourself in the history of this delightful confection.

L'Artisan Nougatier, 35 Boulevard Desmarais, Montélimar

Douceurs du Palais, 101 Route de Valence, Montélimar

Chabert & Guillot, since 1848, 4 rue Émile Monier, 26200 Montélimar

Le Chaudron d'or, since 1949, 7 avenue du 45e Régiment-de-Transmissions, Montélimar | This nougatier produces 50 tonnes of nougat annually.

Nougat events

Every year around 20 July, the Nougat Festival takes place in Montélimar. This event is a perfect family day out, offering the chance to meet nougat makers and local producers. The festival includes a variety of activities and concludes with an evening of music.

Asparagus

History of asparagus

Asparagus, originally from the Mediterranean basin, was enjoyed by the Greeks and Egyptians in its wild form. The Romans cultivated it, but it fell into relative obscurity until the Renaissance, when it re-emerged as a delicacy among the finest gourmets. Historically considered a luxury product, asparagus was highly valued in royal courts. At Versailles, Louis XIV was so fond of asparagus that he demanded it at his table year-round. His gardener, Jean-Baptiste de La Quintinie, met this challenge by developing an innovative cultivation system under cover, using a technique called forçage to force the growth of fruits and vegetables outside their normal flowering periods.

Asparagus became more widely available in the 19th century when its cultivation spread to the Paris region and the Loire Valley. Eventually, it also became popular in Aquitaine, Provence, and the South of France, regions that are now key producers.

Varieties and flavours

Among the numerous varieties of asparagus, four main types are commonly found:

White asparagus: Grown underground without light, this variety has a fine and delicate taste.
Purple asparagus: This is white asparagus whose tip has turned purple due to exposure to light, giving it a slightly bitter but fruity flavour.
Green asparagus: Grown in the open air, this variety has a more pronounced flavour with a sweet bud.
Wild asparagus: Known for its crunchy texture and delicate taste.

The question on everyone’s mind 

How can you eat asparagus all year round? If you are a fan of asparagus and want to enjoy it year-round, simply blanch it for two to three minutes in boiling water, then freeze it. This method allows you to store asparagus for up to eight months.

How to eat them

Asparagus is best enjoyed cooked, served hot or warm, with a vinaigrette, hollandaise sauce, mousseline sauce, or mayonnaise. It can also be used as a dip for boiled eggs. When buying asparagus, choose spears with well-closed buds, slightly shiny heels, and intact stems. Fresh asparagus can be stored for up to three days by wrapping it in newspaper or a damp cloth and keeping it in the vegetable compartment of your refrigerator.

Where to buy them

Asparagus is the quintessential spring vegetable, typically found on market stalls in April, May, and June, and sometimes even into July. For addresses of local producers, visit Granvillage.

Asparagus events

The Mormoiron Asparagus Fair has been a beloved event for the past 27 years, held annually around mid-April. This fair brings together around one hundred stands offering local produce, arts and crafts, tasting workshops, and cooking competitions, creating a lively and festive atmosphere.

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Cherries

History of cherries

Cherries have a long history, dating back to the Stone Age, approximately 3.3 million years ago. Archaeologists have discovered small cherry pits in ancient Swiss lakeside settlements. According to legend, migratory birds from the East played a role in spreading cherry stones around the world. However, historical records attribute the introduction of cherries to Europe to the Roman general Lucullus, who brought them from Asia to Italy. The Romans began cultivating cherry trees not only for their fruit but also for their leaves. By the Middle Ages, cherries were enjoyed both raw and cooked, often featured in dishes and wine. Stone-spitting competitions even became popular during this period.

In the 18th century, Louis XV greatly encouraged the production of cherries, leading to the optimisation and intensive cultivation techniques still in use today. Napoleon was also a known admirer of cherries, so much so that a variety bears his name. Provence, with its exceptional sunshine, suitable humidity, and dry weather during harvest time, provides the ideal climate for cherry growing. The region's cherries have also become essential to the confectioners of Apt. With 3,000 producers, the Vaucluse remains the leading cherry-producing department in France, with three-quarters of the harvest destined for the confectionery industry.

Varieties and flavours

France boasts over two hundred varieties of cherries, but only about a dozen are cultivated commercially. The four main types are:

Bigarreau: Sweet with firm, crunchy flesh, available in white or red.
Guigne: Soft-fleshed, commonly used to make kirsch.
Amarelle: Known for its acidic flavour and clear juice.
Morello cherry: Tart with coloured juice, often used in cooking and baking.

The question on everyone’s mind

Where is the largest concentration of cherry trees in France?

The largest concentration is found in the Vaucluse, specifically in the Monts de Venasque. This region is renowned for producing the first premium cherry brand in 1978, known as the Monts de Venasque cherry, celebrated for its sweetness and fragrance.

How to eat them

Cherries are delicate and should be consumed shortly after purchase to enjoy them at their best. They can be eaten raw, or used in jams, syrups, or compotes. Cherries are also popular in desserts such as clafoutis, tarts, soufflés, and the classic Black Forest gâteau, pairing beautifully with chocolate. Additionally, cherries can be used in savoury dishes, complementing meats like pork loin, duck breast, or venison leg.

Where to buy them

Cherries can be found at markets throughout Provence from May to the end of July. For those interested in buying directly from producers, visit Acheter à la Source.

Cherry events

The Syndicat de la Cerise de Venasque organises an annual Cherry Festival, which includes cherry tasting, local product exhibitions, catering, and entertainment. For more information, you can call +33 4 90 67 37 46 or email [email protected].

A Recipe

Pears

History of pears

Pears have a long history that traces back to Central Asia, where their cultivation began over 4,000 years ago in China. From there, the fruit spread across Europe, becoming popular among the Greeks and Romans, who enjoyed it raw, cooked, dried, and even as a fermented drink. Pears made their way to France in the 16th century, with a legend suggesting that François I first tasted the cremesin pear during a stop in Gap after returning from Italy. However, it was Louis XIV who truly popularised the pear, thanks to his gardener, Jean-Baptiste de La Quintinie, who cultivated various species in the royal kitchen garden at Versailles. The pear variety known as the "robin" was renamed "royal" in honour of Louis XIV, who was particularly fond of it. Pears have long been associated with special occasions. During the coronation of French sovereigns in Reims, pears were offered alongside a glass of champagne with the phrase: "We offer you the best we have: our wines, our pears, and our hearts." By the end of the 18th century, Provençal orchards were producing large quantities of pears.

Over the centuries, many pear varieties have been cultivated, with around ten main types grown in France today, although there are several thousand in existence. One of the most popular varieties is the Conference, which originated in England and was named after winning a prize at the British National Pear Conference in 1885.

Varieties and flavours

Pears are classified into summer and winter varieties. Summer pears are harvested from July onwards, while winter pears are harvested from September onwards. Here are some of the main varieties:

Summer varieties:

Beurré Giffard: Pale yellow with a red tint, featuring fine, melting, and juicy flesh. It is very sweet.
Dr. Jules Guyot: Yellow with fine, melting, and sweet flesh.
Williams: Yellow with a red tint, known for its fine, sweet, and juicy flesh with a musky aroma.
Beurré Hardy: Bronze green in colour with fine, juicy, sweet, and fragrant flesh.

Winter varieties:

Conference: Straw-yellow with a green tinge, offering fine, melting flesh with a slightly acidic taste.
Louise Bonne d'Avranches: Green-yellow with a red tint, featuring sweet, fragrant, and tangy flesh.
General Leclerc: Yellow with fine, tender, juicy flesh and a slightly acidic taste.
Doyenné du Comice: Yellow with red tints, sometimes dented, with fine, melting, juicy, sweet, and acidulous flesh.

The question on everyone’s mind

Can pears be stored for a long time?

Yes, but it depends on the variety. Pears are climacteric fruits, meaning they can continue to ripen after being picked. Winter pears, in particular, store well. Those harvested in October are fully ripe by December and can be enjoyed until March or even May, during which time they develop their full flavour. To store pears for as long as possible, place them in a cool room (around 5°C), in a single layer on gridded shelves, ensuring they do not touch each other. Check them regularly and remove any pears that begin to spoil.

How to eat them

Pears are versatile and can be enjoyed both raw and cooked. They add a subtle sweetness to savoury dishes and are often found in mixed salads, pairing well with ingredients like carrots, nuts, and cheese. When fried in butter or poached, pears enhance meat dishes such as duck, poultry, lamb, or game. They also complement scallops and foie gras. In sweet preparations, pears shine in fruit salads, bavarois, charlottes, tarts, compotes, jams, and jellies. Poached in wine, either red or white, or in syrup, pears are a true delight. They pair particularly well with chocolate and almonds, and pear brandy is a must-try.

Pear events

Every year, at the beginning of November, the Foire de la Poire Sarteau takes place in La Javie (Alpes-de-Haute-Provence). This festive event is not to be missed and celebrates the region's beloved pear variety.

A Recipe

Aix-en-Provence Calissons

History of Aix-en-Provence calissons

The origins of the calisson are somewhat uncertain, with references dating back to the 12th century in a Medieval Latin text that mentions "calisone," an almond and flour cake similar to marzipan. This treat also has roots in Crete, where a similar sweet called "kalitsounia" is made with almond paste, nuts, and spices.

The word "calisson" appeared in France during religious ceremonies, particularly during the plague of 1630. To protect the population, priests distributed blessed calissons and pronounced the Latin phrase "venite ad calicem" (come to the chalice), which the people of Aix translated into Provençal as "venes touti au calissoun." Another explanation comes from Brother Bonaventure, a Capuchin monk from Six-Fours, who described calissons as tender biscuits made with almond paste, shaped like a chalice, in his book Festes d'églises et coutumes de missions en Provence. The term "calisson" was later popularised in Provençal literature, notably by the poet Claude Brueys (1570-1636).

Legend

According to legend, the first Aix-en-Provence calissons were created by the confectioner of King René d'Anjou for his marriage to Jeanne de Laval. The future queen was reputed to be austere, but when she tasted a calisson, her face lit up with a smile. She asked the confectioner what these sweets were called, and he replied, "di câlin souns," meaning "little hugs" in Provençal. The name stuck, and the shape of the calisson is said to represent the queen’s smile.

The question on everyone’s mind

Is there really only one recipe for calisson?

Surprisingly, no! While the traditional melon-based recipe is the most famous, today calissons come in a variety of flavours, including lemon, raspberry, fig, orange, caramel, chocolate/hazelnut, and almond. Sampling different flavours is the best way to discover your favourite.

Where to buy them

La boutique du Roy René, 380 Route d'Avignon - Quartier la Calade - RD7N, Aix-en-Provence | Visit the calisson museum located here and explore the history of this beloved sweet.

La chocolaterie de Puyricard, La Plantation, quartier Maliverny, avenue Georges de Fabry, Puyricard | This location offers visits to the production workshop and even training courses. Tasting calissons fresh from the oven is an experience not to be missed.

La Maison Brémond, 10 espace Saint-Pierre, Peyruis | A great place to purchase calissons and other regional delicacies.

Aix-en-Provence calisson events

Every year since 1995, on the first Sunday of September, a blessing ceremony for calissons takes place in the Saint-Jean-de-Malte church in Aix-en-Provence. This event attracts several thousand participants and is followed by the Almond and Calisson Festival in the centre of Aix, featuring dances, concerts, and celebrations throughout the day.

Tapenade

History of tapenade

Tapenade is a quintessential recipe in Provençal cuisine, traditionally made from green or black olives, crushed together with olive oil, capers, anchovy fillets, garlic, and Provençal herbs. This savoury spread was invented in Marseille in 1880 by Chef Meynier of the La Maison Dorée restaurant.

Varieties and flavours

Tapenade comes in two main varieties: green and black. Each has its distinct flavour profile. Black tapenade is known for its stronger, more bitter taste, while green tapenade offers a milder, fresher flavour.

The question on everyone’s mind

Where does tapenade get its name?

The name "tapenade" is derived from the Provençal word "tapen," meaning "capers," which are the second most important ingredient in the original recipe.

How to eat it

Tapenade is a versatile dish often enjoyed as an aperitif. It is typically spread on toast or served in ramekins with vegetable sticks. Beyond this, it is widely used in Mediterranean cuisine as a stuffing for poultry, in puff pastries, with meat, pasta, and even in omelettes.

Where to buy it

You can find tapenade at every Provençal market, where at least one stall will offer a selection of olives and tapenades. Sampling different varieties is the best way to find your favourite and bring a taste of Provence home with you.

Tapenade events

Provence usually hosts various events between the end of November and the end of January, celebrating the olive and its beloved derivative, tapenade. It is advisable to check with the local Tourist Office for the most up-to-date information during your stay.

Fougasse

History of fougasse

Fougasse has its origins in the Middle Ages, where it began as a simple brioche dough used by bakers to test the temperature of their ovens. Originally, it served as a snack for the bakers themselves. Over time, different ingredients were added to the dough, and thus, the fougasse we know today was born.

Varieties and flavours

Fougasse is a flatbread with a soft crust and a thick, chewy crumb. It is traditionally sculpted during preparation to form a pattern resembling several branches. The basic dough is made from wheat or beige flour, water, baker’s yeast, and olive oil. It can be garnished with a variety of ingredients, including olives, onions, anchovies, bacon, cheese, tomato sauce, mushrooms, and Provençal herbs. These ingredients can either be mixed into the dough or placed on top before baking.

There is also a sweet, brioche-like version of fougasse, known as fougassette, which is particularly popular in the Southern Alps, Grasse, and Aigues-Mortes. This sweet version is often enjoyed as one of the thirteen traditional Christmas desserts.

The question on everyone’s mind

Where does 'fougasse' get its name?

The word 'fougasse' (or focaccia) comes from the Latin phrase panis focacius, which means "flat bread baked on a hearth or under the ashes of a fire."

How to eat it

In the South of France, fougasse is a staple at every aperitif, but it can also be enjoyed as a main course when served with a green salad.

Where to buy it

Fougasse is widely available at your favourite bakery or at local markets throughout Provence. Enjoy sampling different varieties to find the one that best suits your taste.

A Recipe

Navettes

History of navettes

The origin of navettes is steeped in legend. One tale suggests that in the 18th century, a statue of the Virgin Mary washed ashore in Lacydon Cove, now known as the Vieux-Port of Marseille. The statue, made of polychrome wood, was seen as a divine sign by the people of Marseille. In response, they dedicated a boat-shaped biscuit, the navette, to honour her.

Another story ties the navette to the arrival of the Holy Marys—Mary Magdalene, Mary Salome, and Mary Jacobé—who were said to have landed on the coasts of Provence. To commemorate this event, M. Aveyrous, founder of the Four des Navettes bakery in 1781, shaped this biscuit like a small boat. Since the late 18th century, every 2nd February, the people of Provence celebrate La Chandeleur (Candlemas) by enjoying navettes blessed by the Archbishop of Marseille near the Saint-Victor Abbey. The Four des Navettes bakery continues this tradition, now led by Nicolas Imbert, who has taken over from his father, Jean-Claude Imbert, as the guardian of this historic custom.

Varieties and flavours

The original recipe for navettes, created in 1781, consists of water, flour, and a hint of orange blossom. This classic version remains the most popular in Provence. However, variations exist, with some recipes incorporating fresh eggs and butter, or adding flavours like lemon or chocolate.

The question on everyone’s mind

Is the recipe for navettes just water, flour, and orange blossom?

While the basic recipe is simple, it is said that there might be a secret ingredient added to enhance the flavour. To discover more, you can visit the Four des Navettes at 136 rue Sainte in Marseille and ask Nicolas Imbert himself about the secret ingredient.

How to eat them

Navettes are a versatile treat, perfect with a cup of coffee or a refreshing sorbet. They are also a popular choice for an afternoon snack, enjoyed with tea.

Where to buy them

Four des Navettes, 136 rue Sainte, Marseille | The original bakery where navettes were first made, and where the tradition continues to this day.

Les Navettes des Accoules, 68 rue Caisserie, Marseille | Another popular spot in Marseille to purchase these delightful biscuits.

Biscuiterie José Orsoni Navettes et Canistrelli, 7 boulevard Louis Botinelly, Marseille | Known for a variety of traditional Provençal biscuits, including navettes.

Navette events

La Chandeleur (Candlemas) is the most significant event of the year for the Four des Navettes. On 2nd February, hundreds of people gather at the shop to witness the blessing of the navettes by the Archbishop of Marseille. The day begins at 5 am with the procession of the Black Madonna. The Archbishop blesses the city, the sea, and the green candles of Saint Victor's Abbey, followed by a solemn mass. At 8 am, he visits the Four des Navettes bakery to bless the oven, the navettes, the bakers, the sellers, and all who partake in eating them. A local tradition suggests that to ensure good luck for the entire family, you should keep a blessed navette and a green candle from Candlemas until the next year. The following year, the candle is burned, and the navette, which keeps for a whole year, is eaten.

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